Route to Roost Site Pasir Puteh

Returning to roost.

Saturday, 1st day:

I stumbled upon a route to a roosting site somewhere around Taman Bukit Gedombak, Pasir Puteh yesterday. There were waves upon waves of egrets (mixed flock) flying south towards Tok Bali/Semerak area to their roosting site for at least an hour between 6:30-7:15pm. It was an amazing sight to behold especially when you're looking up from underneath them.

The 400mm kit was ideal to get the egrets as they flew by up above. The 11-16mm on the 7D was too wide, the birds were too small. The kits lens would have ideal to record the whole event on video and of course I didn't have it with me. The typical "should've"s!

There were literally thousands of birds streaming overhead continuously till sundown.

Sunday, 2nd day:

It was literally in the thousands again today. It all started at 1800hrs and didn't stop till sundown which is 1930hrs in these parts. The call to prayer for Maghrib was well underway as I made my way back to the car which was parked 800m away.

Today unfortunately I heard several shotguns blasted from a location further away, likely targetting these birds but I can't be sure. Pond Heron are known to be seasonally taken for the pot in this area but recently I have heard of egrets suffering the same fate.

Pictures to follow.

The few making it's way to the roost site. The spectacle continued until the sun was well over the horizon.

The egrets streaming overhead shot from my hiding spot below some leafy trees.

A flock making their way south. The streaming flocks started from 1800hrs and continued all the way to 1930hrs non-stop. The flocks originated from their feeding ground in the paddyfields around Jelor, Merkang and the surroundings.

The egrets' approach was via Bukit Gedombak (from both sides of the hill) in the North and flying South towards Tok Bali. The roosting site is likely to be situated in the last final stands of kayu gelam after Bukit Gedomdak before Tok Bali. The red-star marked the location I was at while making these record shots.

The zoomed out area. A significant portion of the countryside in these parts has been opened up for new roads and flood mitigation measures over the years with Bachok/Tok Bali/Pasir Puteh seeing the most change in landscape. With these activities old inaccessible roost sites were most probably destroyed and access made much easier for hunters on motobike through the newly built mudtracks.

Sunny Sunday Cruising with the Batavus Lente

27 kms from Tg Lobang and back.

Didn't notice this guy's T-shirt until I got home.

Miri's very own marina, I still remembered a remark by one federal minister made during a meeting with Miri Municipal Council, "Why would a place like Miri need a marina?" This was way back in 1998.

Samling's multi-level apartment coming up next to Miri Marriot Resort and Spa. My own remark when I first step foot in Miri from KL, "Why would anyone want to live in an apartment in Miri?"

The Batavus Lente made a good fit at the back of the Pajero.

Sibuti Wildlife Sanctuary by bike

The 18km return route to Sibuti Wildlife Sanctuary from SK Kpg Masjid.

We drove out at 4:30pm after ding-dong-ing at home the whole day. By the time we reached SK Kpg Masjid's jetty it was already a few minutes past 5pm.

The two MTBs were quickly offloaded and biking we went. This was supposed to be a short ride to refamiliarise ourselves with these nifty human powered two-wheelers. Clare last cycled probably way back in the summer of 2004, our last Dutch summer before we returned to Miri. I've been cycling a hybrid-roadbike occasionally for exercise since June 2011, so by right my biking is less rusty than Clare's.

The first segment of the road is surfaced, the second segment is also surfaced but with compacted medium sized gravel, the last stretch to the Sanctuary is still hardened fine mud. In many places there were potholes and wet muddy patches. Ideal for fat tires with multiple gear options.

One could make it fun by sprinting through the muddy patches but since it's our first ride, it was much more fun riding quietly and getting as close as we can to the roosting macaques and pigeons along the route. The time as well as just about settling down time for these critters with sunset only an hour away. There were several troops of monkeys all along the path, some were busily crossing the path to get to their favorite branches, the kids would definitely have loved it.

We arrived at the office just as Suni was finishing up his grasscutting chores. Suni is one of the four rangers stationed at the sanctuary. His family took up residence at the double storey wooden building that also couples as the Sanctuary office. They venture to town only for kids' schooling and getting supplies for the family. It seemed an ideal life surrounded by nature all day and nights, Suni's children seemed to love it most.

This sanctuary provides ideal habitat for crocodiles, but crocodiles are not popular subjects around here. Suni mentioned two recent cases of crocodile attack nearby. Though in both cases, the victims survived the separate attacks, the manner of which the attack occurred dismayed the locals. It took place near the village and not some quiet spot away from human habitation. The cases definitely didn't improve people's views on crocodiles around the sanctuary. Somehow the myth that "crocodiles don't attack villagers" is getting eroded quicker by each attack.

We left Suni and his family just as the sun was diving beneath the horizon. We promised to be back with the children next time around, perhaps maybe camp overnite to spy on the Buffy Fish Owl that has a favorite perch right in front of the park office. And of course to check out the eyeshine if any local crocs in nearby canals and small rivers.

Soon enough we'll be biking the 18km return trip with plenty of things to see along the way.

Leisurely ride, you'll never forget how to cycle, it might be wobbly at first but once it sinks in, it quickly becomes an automatic reaction.

The swamp getting ready to receive sunset. Sibuti Wildlife Sanctuary is not yet open to the public, SFC has an office at the Sanctuary to keep things in order. BTW, there are crocodiles in them there canals.

The sun setting as we cycled back to our waiting car.

Batavus Lente is Back!

There should be no other word to describe it other than utter callousness. I'm not quite sure how it happened either.

This was a well-beloved bike, my Batavus Lente, bought in 2001 back in the village bike-shop in Rolde. It cost a pretty penny even then but most of the bikes at the shop were meant to serve a lifetime. This bike was a constant companion of mine: weekday commuting, weekend shopping, excursions with the kids when Ali was a toddler and Aisya was still a baby.

It served well ... rain or shine, windy or sunny, weekdays and weekend. We were very close to signing up for the Dutch summer cross country national cycling event, but decided against it in the end after some consideration mostly the time commitment required, and the two little ones that would have to tag along.

Then we came back and settled at 582 Hilltop. The Lente was left aside, parked idle ... day-in and day-out. Present but unused. For 7 years it sat there untouched and not cared for. Bikes became almost non-existent in our family, almost foreign. They were at one time a big part of our daily lives. Then busy took over ...

With almost seven year under the bridge, Ali and Aisya are both bigger now. And they started to get interested in cycling. It started with two bike purchases (Nexus BMX) for the kids, the hybrid-roadie (Specialised Sirrus) for me to burn some fat with, later two hardtail mtbs (Specialised Myka and Scott Aspect 40) for Clare and I. There's also the folding bike for Clare's anticipated emergency dash to the grocery store for milk or bread.

The Batavus Lente has risen again, how apt. A short sojourn at the local bikeshop, and a few minor reburfishments (most of the major parts are not available in Miri) later, the Lente is now back ... aged slighty but fully functioning as it should. It will feature regularly in our family once more.

2011 will be marked by the revival of the Batavus Lente into our family and 2012 the start of our family cycling forays. Bicycles will definitely return to be a big part of our family activities again just like the Rolde days. Busy safely locked up, keys thrown away for good.

PS:

Now let's see how I'm gonna lug the 600mm onto the Lente for biking-birding excursions in the countryside.

Weekend Birding at Lambir Hills

An obliging bulbul on a macaranga, and behind him the fruits many birds go for.

Not 4 weekends ago, while visiting Lambir with the kids, we met a birder with his father attempting some bird photography at Lambir Hills National Park with a 500m. His first question was : "Do we have a bird guide?". Short answer : "No, we haven't got one here in Miri unless you engage someone beforehand from tour outfits in Kuching or KL. Those guides in KK would be closest!"

Lambir Hills National Park is a big place. Birdwatching is probably manageable on your own if you know the birds and you are adventurous enough to venture into the trails alone. You'd still need a few days to do the place justice. The Lambir 2002 Birdlist (Shanahan & Debsky) boasts a comprehensive list of 200+ birds. There hasn't been any more complete work to date since then.

For bird photography, it's probably best if you are already aware of where the birds are going to be. This is where local knowledge, perhaps built over the years of birding the area or collective birding experience come into play. A bird photographer can quickly set-up in a designated place known to be having regular bird visits thus guaranteed results.

Over the years, many birders have been to and birdwatched at Lambir. Some of this additional information is added to the list maintained at the Park HQ Office. Occasional visits by Miri birders added some more valuable bird sightings to the list.

If you are visiting only for a day or two, some of the following locales within the Park complex might be useful to you. If you have more time, book yourself into one of the hilltop chalets and do your photography to your heart's content from your chalet windows within the confines of your comfortable temporary hide. If you feel lucky surely go lug your equipment along the Innoue-Pantu Loop trail, there are several choice spots along the way for very shy birds that do come out calling once in a while. Persistence and patience do pay off in these parts.

My favorite places has always been just around the HQ complex. I'm not looking for any rarities in particular, any bird photograph is an image worth making in my mind. Some of these pictures I have made while checked in at the Hilltop Chalet. One of these days I might just try to lug the 600mm, tripod with Wimberley head as well as other associated accessories into Innoue, it's not yet time for now.

One of my favorite spot is Chalet No. 3 just up the hill behind the temporary canteen just after you've passed the old park office. In between the chalets there are a few nice rhododenrons and macarangas. A few other fruiting plants I don't recognize. These are perfect spots for birdwatching and bird photography without having to lug heavy equipment too far into the trail. During furiting seasons, these spots are a hive of activities.

Dusky Munia are commonly seen flitting about the neighbourhood. These days, the park has put up several nesting poles at a few locations for this beautiful endemic. At least 3-4 kinds of bulbuls and sunbirds make their stops at the macarangas picking up juicy little ripe fruits. My personal favorites are Hairy-backed Bulbul and Purple-naped Sunbird. Another favorite, Spectacled Spiderhunter, the largest spiderhunter in these parts are regulars here.

Fruiting trees are all tell tale signs that the site could be your next productive site as far as birds are concerned.

Chalet No. 3 from across the wooden bridge. A fruiting macaranga in between Chalet 3 and 4 guarantees bulbuls, sunbirds, flowerpeckers and spiderhunters. A rhododendron is also nearby.

Another spot, the camera is pointing to a fruiting tree a favorite of bulbuls, barbets and leafbirds. Occasionally a squirrel or two would drop in.

Little orange fruit (unidentified) a favorite of several species of bulbuls, barbets and leafbirds.

If you are lucky you'll spot nesting Dusky Munia busy flitting back and forth tending or building nest for the season. Bornean Brown Barbet and Greater Leafbird are regularly seen picking up ripe fruits in this area.

Areas surrounding Hilltop Chalet is probably second only to Chalet No. 3. Here if you are early, you can point your lens towards babblers which are very active very early in the morning and late afternoon. There's also an unidentified fruting tree with little black berries and macaranga in front of the chalet. You can shoot all day from the comfort of your chalet living room.

Down the hill from the Hilltop Chalet is a small pond, quiet by the side with a little shelter on it's shore. Here Blue-eared Kingfisher, Stork-billed Kingfisher have been recorded. Black-naped Monarch stops by for a bath on hot days. Banded Kingfisher so far has been heard but has not yet been seen. You'll be probably be more lucky with the Rufous-backed Kingfisher in the same area.


This little pond is a confirmed favorite of at least three species of kingfisher as well as other birds. Occasionally a terrapin would pop it's head out of the water.

For the more stout at heart, a foray into the Innoue trail just behind the Hilltop Chalet could be just the thing to get you pumping. Other than the babblers, pittas and trogons regularly calls a short distance into the trail. Only a few birders have been privileged with photographs of both species. Further up towards Pantu shelter, sightings of Bornean Bristlehead has been made on numerous occasions. Near a small valley where a wooden bridge cross a little stream, there's a little pool of water on the right where a Banded Kingfisher regularly calls though he has yet to be sighted much more photographed by anyone.

With 200+ species of birds on it's list, those spending a few days at Lambir Hills NP would surely be rewarded with sightings of at least 1/3 of the birds there. A single half day trip maynot be enough for everyone, but it surely rakes up your chances of getting the less regularly seen quarries.

Nazeri Abghani/Nov 2011

PS:

Recently accomodation options at the Park have at least tripled with the addition of several new modern concrete chalets. Pick those closest to sites above for comfortable birding from the confines of your chalets.

Birding Merkang Nov 2011

Merkang's networked roads in the paddyfields.

Back to Merkang - a week off work just before the school break to send the kids back to Kelantan for their annual immersion of kampong life. Also the twice yearly visit to check-out and keep up the family home.

The kids are a year older, and with their eldest cousin Afif being 13 now, it's a bit easier to leave them at home for a couple of hours while I go check out the birds in the paddyfields of Merkang just at the back of the house. Normally by the time I get back home with the day's breakfast, they'd still be curled up in the living room, still asleep.

These annual trips has become something that I most look forward to every year since Mom's passing. It recharges, with plenty of time to reflect on past years events and look forward or plan for the upcoming new year. Dusting up the family home, packing away a bit of Mom's knick-knack are theraupatic.

The kids love the space to run around, watch tv or play games all day with their cousins. Roaming the paddyfields fishing and collecting siput sawah are probably some of the activities they most look forward to this time of year.

Merkang in my backyard is mostly actively worked on paddyfields in the area connecting Merkang proper, Padang Pak Amat, Jelor, Pauh Lima and several other villages in the area. Clumps of little hills scattered the landscape, for most parts they are flatlands planted with paddy with rows and rows or irrigation canals and good network of kampong roads, some surfaced and some not.

The birds you see here are the regulars you'd see in perhaps many of the paddyfields in Peninsular Malaysia. You've got the waterbirds : egrets, snipes, herons, bitterns, crake and the likes; you'll have raptors, the most common being the kites and harriers; and then you'd have the seed eating variety such as munias, grassland types of birds. Kingfishers are a personal favorite along some of the clear water canals that meander along the road network. One rare sighting was of the Crested Partridge a couple of years back, a sighting of a Watercock still remains unconfirmed.

I usually start off just after daylight, traverse the road network by car and shoot from the car window. The likes of Pond Heron, Egrets, Kingfishers are very skittish here, perhaps due to regular hunting for the pot by the locals (especially the pond herons and bitterns). The 400/5.6 and 600/4 are both attached to Canon 7D bodies respectively on the front passenger seats. The 400 for quick grabshots while the 600 are reserved for more slow work where the quarry if comfortable and unawares.

I hardly use flash because the attachment on the bracket would fit the car window, it's quite a challenge trying to maneuver the 600 in a car, much more with all sorts of accessories attached to it. Back in the boot, I have the Gitzo ever ready, so far it hasn't seen much use in the paddy fields. In fact I was thinking of just ditching it for any upcoming Merkang trips, replacing the Gitza instead with a beanbag.

The shots have been half-way decent half of the time. With not much traffic during the early morning hours, the birds get spooked less, so opportunity for good captures are rather high. So far other than the raptors, most other quarries have afforded some decent images.

Below is a selection of images captured in Nov 2011:

Black-shouldered Kite is probably the most successful and abundant raptor in the Merkang paddyfields.


Harriers are also sighted regularly and is the biggest raptor around these parts.

White-throated Kingfisher, the most common kingfisher species in paddyfields.

Pond Heron is another ubiquitous species near the water's edge. A very skittish quarry being regularly hunted by the locals for the pot.

Old friend Little Egret, it's always a grand sight to see them fly into the paddyfields in big flocks in the early of the morning and to see them off again in the evening.


A Common Kingfisher perched unawares nearby a clear water stream that branched off one of the irrigation canals. By the time the 600m was poised for a photo, it did a fast dissappearing act not to be traced again.

Chestnut Bee-eater on a dead branch in early morning light.

Another Pond Heron photographed with a 400mm from the car window as it was ready to fly off again.

The children also tried their hands at bird photography on this year. Afif finally got the hang of the 400mm and made a couple of decent shots before the week was over. Aisya and Irfan concluded that the lens and camera were far too heavy for them, Irfan got excited with the prospect of owning his own pair of binoculars one of these days.

Ali has a fair ways to go yet to be converted to a birder. Several more similar outings in the backyards of Merkang, I am sure we'll have a few more birdwatchers in the area.

Short jaunt into Latak Waterfalls, Lambir

Two brats cooling off at Latak Waterfall.


Honey. I'm home.


Bloom.


The fairy garden.


The Selunsor.

Nobody wanted to go anywhere this morning, it took a whole lot of cajolling and pouting to finally get the kids into their walking shoes. Additional junk food from the gas station and a bottle each of fizzy drink finally sealed the deal. Even then the agreed concessions were : there would be no heavy trekking, there would be no prolonged photography session of any sort along the trails and the trip would only involved a short jaunt to Latak Waterfall and back.

They warmed up a bit after the usual crack-ups at "Pelir Kambing" point, the tarantula was deep inside it's lair, the entrance squeaky clean ... so the kambing won hands down with all around positive approval rating on the way in. "Bird-poop" spider hasn't been around for a while, refreshing that both kids remembered the location, and spent all of 2 seconds looking for the tiny predator.

The walk over to Latak was brisk passing the Walking Palm which hasn't made much progress all these 15 years, it's still in the same spot. Maybe it liked it's present spot so much, it's not bothered with walking anymore ... a contented palm. The Selunsor is as resplendant as it had been when I first laid eyes on it back in 1991 if not more. It's girth has increased a wee bit after almost twenty years, the change is much less than mine comparatively in as many years, and it's got height on it's side.

We got to Latak Waterfall on a typical quiet Saturday morning, other than a few completely soaked female teachers (fully attired, head to toe) who arrived much earlier for a unhindered jungle swim, we were practically the only ones there. Latak has always been a popular convenient picnic spot for visitors to Lambir Hills, plenty of shade, more than enough shelters and always the cool inviting waters of the falls.

After a frolicking good time with the resient little shrimps inhabiting Sg Latak and a spot of sunshine, we took off about lunchtime just as more late risers were making their way to Latak.

Cycling Sibuti Wildlife Sanctuary, Bekenu

There's crocs in them murky waters.

Both were mighty glad to see tarmac again.

Resting in the shade.

A most beautiful spot to snack and listen to the birds. The sanctuary is not 10 mins away.

The plan was to cycle all the way from SK Kpg Masjid to the Sibuti Wildlife Sanctuary Office, maybe go say "Hallo!" to Uncle Sunni and Uncle Remli at their worksplace. Alas, it wasn't meant to be.

This was the first time the kids had ever attempted off-road cycling. Though their tires were fat enough, the riders weren't used to cycling over gravel roads with potholes here and there. Perhaps it was too soon an introduction to dirt biking. It was unfair to say to least, it was their first double-track, my skinnies didn't like it either.

"It's bumpy ... my butt hurts!" was all that Ali managed to yell all the way to the hut half-way to the sanctuary. We didn't get to say hallo to Uncle Remli but bumped into Uncle Sunni along the path as we were leaving for the car.

Kids' Cycling Weekend

A weekend free of activities is not easy to come by, it was with great delight and relish that the family finally afforded two days of activity free weekend after a September chock full of stuff.

On Saturday, free of tuition, replacement classes and dentail appointments and other even lesser chores we packed up the two bikes and drove off. Destination : Bulatan Park. This was the first time ever the kids got to road test their bikes outside the confines of our home since we bought the bikes in June. All this while all they had been doing was to practice their bike maneuvers around the house. They went about the Shell Traffic Games lanes over and over and over again as if to finally release all the cycling angst they've held within all this months.

On Sunday, we decided it's time for more open road cycling. With the two bikes packed up, we headed to the old Kuala Baran Ferry road, on the other side of Batang Baram. Both Ali and Aisya had a field day cycling on the open road, almost traffic free. The overcast skies helped shield them from the sun ... the breeze from the coast and open areas add a tad of a challenge. With an hour break at the old jetty, they both cycled a total of 8kms roundtrip. Aisya wanted more but reluctantly gave in when Ali decided that he'd had enough paddling for the week.

To top off an already perfect weekend, at least from the kids' point of view, we lunched at Mac D in PermyJaya ... between the two of them they gobbled 5xDouble-cheeseburgers!!! Rather unsure whether that's something I should be proud of.

Aisya braked too hard on the way back and tipped over.

Aisya had more than enough practice at home, as cool as a cucumber on two wheels.

Ali meanwhile with less practice was still nervous and trying his best to cycle a straight line.

Both the kids finally getting the hang of their wheels and actually relaxing and putting out a smile.

Growing up in a kampung setting, I counted myself lucky when Mom finally relented to my requests for a bike when I was 12 ... after I delivered the grades. With a bunch of friends our days were more free then, we cycled all over roaming the countryside leaving the house as early as 5am and returning as late as dinnertime. Sometimes just roaming around, sometimes trying out far-away fishing holes. Those were exciting and more innocent times : we didn't have parents chauffering us around then watching our backs 24/7.

Camping at Suai Beach : Ritz Carlton

Nazeri, Zeana, Maye, Radhika, Mad Ali, Sara and Roslee about to cross the river from Hilton 2 heading out to Kpg Kuala Suai Dec 2008. Photo by Rabani HM Ayub taken on the 3rd day of our trek..

One of the reasons for making this trip was to observe dark skies in Suai, another was to recollect fond memories of camping in the middle of nowhere with a bunch of like minded friends back in 2008.

We first camped out at the location dubbed Hilton Camp2 during our Long Beachwalk back in December 2008. It was serendipity that we reached the site slightly later than expected and by then were not able to cross the river due to high tide, thus camped by the riverside instead. Tired, hungry, we ran out of food as well as water. A few minutes after setting camp, heavy storm clouds approached, it rained heavily and all we had was soaked. As night settled in, the skies glowed with brilliant stars. The glorious sunset and nightscenes that evening were perhaps the most memorable; not the blisters, not the oats and tuna sandwich dinner; not the rainwater tea or the lurking single crocodile we spotted in the river at dusk. After 3 days of walking, the smiles on everyone's face that night was priceless.

This 2011 trip had young pre-adults with us. Rabani, Sara and I were the only ones from the long beachwalk crew that could make it. Musa who was on the original recce crew prior to the Longwalk was also determined to come along with us for the 2 nites camping. Phillip, Adeline, Liza, Ben, Darren, Tiffany, Kenisha, Kendrick, Ali, Shamsul and Abdul were first timers to the area.

We drove to Kpg Kuala Suai through the oil palm plantation. The drive over was smooth and without much drama ... other than the depressing rows upon rows of palm oil; a dozen perplexed looking Indonesian plantation workers we passed along the road who was immediately engulfed in dust behind us.

What's more depressing was perhaps the newly opened up acreage of plantation : recently bulldozed zones, blackened tree stumps still standing while others with lingering amber. The area had been burnt all the way from the edge of the existing plantation to the coast. Another area of peatswamp undergoing conversion by fire.

With backpacks fully loaded we had everyone walking with their own rations for the 3days-2nites camping including 3.o L water. After 1.5 hrs of walking, we made camp at an inactive river, recently sanded up and choked with logs. There was plenty of room for our tents in the sand, plenty of wood to keep the fire going over the two nites. The new campsite was quickly dubbed, "Ritz Carlton". Hilton 2 was not 40 minutes away.

The area was quickly turned to a home away from home : 2 big fireplaces and working kitchens with an unlimited open space for everyone. RC would've made a perfect basecamp for longer stays except for the lack of flowing freshwater.

That first nite we were afforded magnificent views of the Milky Way; we found the Suai dark skies we were after. Scorpio was right in the middle of the display as the sun dipped below the horizon; Orion came later towards the start of the next day over a beautiful cloudless sky right over our campfire.

The next day we walked over to Hilton 2 along the beach: tide was low, the day bright and overcast, the air fresh from South China Sea.

For the short 40 minutes walk over, those who participated in the Long Beachwalk recollected the events from 3 years back : the magnificent beach scenery, quiet and deserted; the friendship we honed over the few days of hard slog and blistered feet as well as the motives each one of us had for undertaking the longwalk.


The glorious sand at Suai, at times a bit muddier depending on the season.


The crew of 2011 Ritz Carton camping weekend looking sprightly and refreshed after 3 days and 2 nites out in the middle of nowhere. (Rabani and Nazeri not in the picture).


Our home away from home, by the time we left on Sunday, the area was clear of logs ... it's an open spacious sandy place perfect for sunseekers.

All around the campfire just after dinner.

Going back was like both saying "hello" and "goodbye" at the same time. The quiet and deserted beach wouldn't be quiet and deserted for long. Big changes to the landscape already took place along much of the the coastlines. We were glad to have walked the place many years back experiencing it in the last few years of its pre-existing state. Hopefully there'd be a few more years of that which would remain, if only just.

There would always be Milky Way, Scorpio and Orion I guess in the dark of Suai nights, traversing the skies over similar stretches like Hilton 2,and Ritz Carlton. That is before something more sinister takes to the skies.

Scorpio and the Milky Way just after sunset from Ritz Carlton.

Read more on Scorpious here.