Tuesday, January 27, 2009

Loagan Bunut


Sunny day loagan side at least for parts of the day. Simply beautiful!

Tuesday, January 20, 2009

Nice Birdies

It's AWC season again ... Asian Waterbird Census. Always a good excuse to get up early Friday morning and check out birds on the waterfront. Great excuse to get up early any weekend mornings and do the same. Not that I needed any excuses to go birdwatching and be by the beach.

This season has been great! There were several Chinese Egrets in Lutong, Kuala Baram and Miri Marina. Pacific Reef Egret (white and grey) at Kuala Baram and Miri Marina. Marsh Sandpiper at the old Miri River reclaimed sited. Sanderlings at Kuala Baram. Blue-breasted Quail in Kuala Baram vegetable farms.

And the others too ... for detailed lists go to AWC 2009 from http://mnsmiri.blogspot.com



A Chinese Egret staring at his breakfast.


A Chinese Egret chasing asfter his breakfast.


A male Malaysian Plover, beautiful.


A female Malaysian Plover, less gaudy in a sophisticated way compared to the male but still beautiful.

Beachcoming for Mermaids


Three quater moon under the pale blue sky.

I really like trudging it alone on the beach, slow walk half expecting to find something wondrous lying in the sands.

A mermaid ... that definitely tops it as the ultimate find! So far jellyfishes are the most common encounter. Found a live wriggling seasnake once ... very poisonous but helpless out of the water. Encountered numerous dead fish ... half-eaten, barely any flesh left. Seen live ones too, recently on the MNS Miri December Long Walk we stumbled upon several live fish, writhing in whatever bit of water left behind by the tide.

Best would be the landscape I must say. Long stretches of sands, with waves pounding incessantly to no end. Or on quiet low tide days, billowing white clouds towering above minute casuarinas with visibility all the way to infinity ... shimmering wet sands reflecting the blueskies. Better still if it was in stormy weather. The landscape can look no more dramatic than year end pounding of the coast by waves so big even hardened fishermen dare not venture to.

Local fishermen too are almost always a delight to talk to. Peering into the catch baskets, chatting with their children and spouse. Short, informal "hallos" can turn to long, extended conversation about far away relatives, schoolchildren, the system and the sea.
Many excursions over the years has not a single time dissappoint. There's always a gem to be found in each outing to the coast.
Mermaids? So far I have not been lucky enough to get the opportunity to thank my lucky stars for one, definitely many appreciative "thank you"s for the other finds ... the walk continues.


Kuala Baram


Lutong Beach


Lutong Beach


Lutong Beach

Tuesday, January 6, 2009

The December Long Walk - We did it!









Well, YES, we did it! Our fulltime team of eight reached Tg Similajau! Congratulations to Maye, Sara, Radhika, Norzie, Rabani, Roslee, and Ali. None worst for wear except for a few blisters and sandfly bites.

JJ made it up to Kpg Sibuti, while Pat and Indi trudge along with us from Kuala Nyalau to Tg Similajau.

We legged it from Tg Bungai - Kpg Sibuti, Kpg Sibuti - Middle Suai, Middle Suai - Kpg Suai, Kuala Nyalau - Tg Similajau ... all 80 kms of it. And we spent a few days at Similajau National Park making new friends, checking out the baby crocodiles and ancient mangrove, and whiled the first few hours of the New Year on the beach around a roaring bonfire yelping "Yesterday!" and chugging champagne whenever the song's chorus escaped us.

The walk itself was rigorous to say the least especially for first timers. We expected to average 4 km/hour but probably only managed a measly 3-3.5km/hr ... we failed to factor in walking experience, proper equipment and pack loads. Some routes curves around bays and promontories which increased estimated total distance. Walking sans baggage is definitely more springy than with 10kgs strapped to your back, hip, and neck!

Some have not walked so far for so long, some have not walked flat terrain for so far for so long. On sunny days, direct heat from the sun, reflected heat from the sands and water tire without us realising it. On rainy days, wetness from intermittent drizzle dampen more than just mere clothes and packs on our backs. The 3 liter of water minimum requirement per person and assorted food and snacks added another 10 kilos at least, not including camera gear for some of us who thrives on total punishment. The journey was decidedly more brisk with day packs. Tg Bungai-Kpg Kuala Sibuti was relatively easy with a light load of one bottled water and snacks. So was the Kuala Nyalau-Tg Similajau leg, all 24 kms of it.

For the longer trek, having to carry tents, fuel and assorted accessories from Kpg Sibuti to Kpg Suai was definitely a test of endurance for the entire group. Correct packs and footwear for long distance walking we found to be crucial, most didn't have this. Lack of proper attention to these points resulted in numerous severe blisters for many, we ran out of elastoplast by Similajau NP. On footwear, light rubber beach slippers meant for beach walking were found to be best, only $12.50 a pair at a Ngiu Kee near you, ditch the others. So does a bagpack with lumbar & hip support for optimal weight distribution. Your pack may feel light at the start, after 4 hours of walking with it, you wished you could be transported to Marriot poolside to sip pina-colada instead.

From Tg Bungai to Kpg Kuala Suai, it was all white sandy beaches, long stretches of coast lined by tall casuarinas and pandanus. The vista was as far as your eyes can see, and not a single other soul in sight. Occasionally there were rivers to cross, most were relatively shallow at low tide while others chest deep by the end of the day. Some are so darkly colored by tannin that by just dipping your foot inside, your imagination runs wild, filled with stories of ferocious crocodiles and black lagoon monsters. Abandoned farms were few and far between, and this being the landas season not a single boat was out at sea. We caught up with a semangka farmer from Kelulit Tengah and his family at the last hut who offered ripe limes and water for our journey. We saw many animal tracks along the Middle Suai to Kpg Kuala Suai route, conversations with local folks suggested presence of monkeys, deers, wildpigs, civets and medium size cats.

From Kuala Nyalau to Tg Similajau, our eyes feasted on completely different landscapes. Here we found mostly rocky shores with various geological features unearthed, and diligently shaped by continous wave action over the years. The layered earth made prominent after all sands were whisked away to an unsuspecting bay nearby. Golden coarse grain sands with high silica content alternated with rough, jagged rocky promontories. All along the coastlines, numerous small rivers colored with tannin fed into the South China Sea. During the landas season, some dormant rivers burst open at the pounding of incessant waves at high tide. At low tide, the coast was as far as the eyes can see ... quiet, serene and untainted with human presence other than us. The rock pools were vibrant with life, all manner of snails, crabs, hermit crabs, blenys could be seen busy with their lives.

We covered the planned route successfully. We walked on a stretch of coast not many has walked before. There were plenty of things to see all along the route, numerous signs of wildlife presence, colorful and helpful local people and best of all unbounded coastal scenery.

One stretch Kpg Suai- Kuala Nyalau still remains. We are already planning to tackle that come April during better weather ... Tg Payung beckons us.

This journey of ours has been dubbed a "Zen of Pain" by some of us. Fittingly so perhaps for two reasons. The blisters, sandfly bites, throbbing sunburnt and parched throats were all part of the exercise. The other more significant reason must be the heartache realising that all these natural beauty existing quietly unharassed, will one day be gone due to apathy and lack of foresight.

Pictures of coastal vistas:

Pictures of folks:

Monday, January 5, 2009

Similajau NP


Ular Kenyalang, Willy and Marion. Willy is a trained guide from Mulu with Marion who's on a holiday in Sarawak. She saved up 7 weeks of her annual leave to volunteer at the Matang Wildlife Center near Kuching. When Willy said "This is ular kenyalang." We went "Right!". He's right!

Similajau NP


Abdul Rahim, Similajau Park Ranger noticed it first as he was cycling past it. We quickly ran over to check it out. Strange for a gliding snake to be taking the route to where he's going. No one was sure whether it was poisonous or not, so we didn't take any chances. It has nice green coloration on top and greenish yellow towards the belly, it's skin is slightly loose. It's tail light brown. Most likely prey are birds, lizards and small insects ... perhaps not so poisonous. Ular Kenyalang, a gliding snake.

Similajau NP


A well camouflaged crab commonly found in the tide pools hiding under small rocks and crevices. The coloration of this individual matches well with the greenish moss on the rocks.

Similajau NP


Pretty butterfly

Similajau NP


Ghost crab doing a poor job of hiding, the tide pools along rocky shores are teeming with life. From little snails to small blenys to miniature octopus.

Thursday, January 1, 2009

Similajau NP


Little hermit at Golden Beach. Many other little creatures form a community within the intertidal zones.

Similajau NP


Rocks in a tidepool at Golden Beach.

Similajau NP


HAPPY NEW YEAR 2009! There was junk food, wine, champagne, a bonfire, good friends and the beach. To all walkers who couldnt be there: 'we missed you!' There we supposed to be 12 of us celebrating New Year ... 4 decided to go Niah and celebrate at Rumah Chang instead, those who were left made the best use to the wines and champagne we bought for the purpose. And there were enough crackers, junk food and tuna dip to go around. Marion taught us a new way to welcome 2009.