Tuesday, November 18, 2008

Bario, The Kelabit Highlands



I am first to admit, I'm a sucker for out-in-the boonie places with colorful locals, fantastic scenery, copious amounts of fresh air, lack of tourists, obvious scarcity of the usual trappings of Paris-New York-London-Tokyo-Amtersdam type amenities. Dang, I do enjoy this lack of modern day ecoutrements (sic). And no phone coverage ... I am out of range!

What BLISS!

It was a first trip to Bario by MNS Miri and gang, and already we are conspiring a few more future trips to the famed Kelabit Highlands. Our short trip didn't do this place justice ... but hey, Bario ain't going nowhere too fast.

The view from the clouds as we crossed the countryside was depressing at first with thousands of hectares of cleared forests and oil palm plantations, some actively in progress. It gradually changed to primordial green again as we approached Mulu National Park, passed near Brunei border and zipped alongside Gunung Murud. These later sights from the air were most awe-inspiring.

The tiny De-Havilland Twin Otter flew like these small ungainly minibuses, landing on the small airstrip was itself an adventure. No lithe stewardesses on this flight! Outside tough, fresh oxygen-fortified mountain air! The freshness felt unreal, the light crisp and clear.

Birding was good ... a bit late for waders perhaps but we did flushed out a few Snipes sp., Wood Sandpipers in and along the paddy fields. Several montane species was heard and some seen: Bornean Treepie, Chestnut-capped Laughingthrush, Mountain Crested Serpent Eagle, Ochraceous Bulbul, Ruddy Cuckoo Dove and others. Black-headed Munia were seen aplenty and a couple of Dusky Munia too. Trogon was heard along the trails. Ashy Drongo and Golden-whiskered Barbet seen just alongside the road. Oh, yeah Bario is apparently Yellow-vented Bulbul central ... they were everywhere, almost omni-present!

The short visit didn't allow any prolonged excursions into the wilds of the forest but we did see the skin of a leopard cat of sorts, a trophy proudly hanging on the wall as part of a living room decoration. A little monkey kept as a pet provided comic relief for a short duration at one of our stops at Pa' Ukat.

There were plenty of local crafts to gawk at too. Bamboo-rattan backpacks, weaved artwork and glass beads. All definitely worth exploring in future visits.

Photography would definitely be something to do here. Other than the aereals on the way in and out, great winding treks with amazing vistas of paddy fields, longhouses and little huts surely suffice for some great landscapes. Interesting features of the Kelabits adorned with traditional costume and jewellery would be a subject in itself. Flora and fauna abound as ready subjects in and around jungle trails.

What else to do in Bario?

Mountain biking : the trails look most enticing, exploring the jungle single-tracks and ex-logging double tracks would be epic.

Camping, jungle trekking : enjoy nature at an even more basic level.
We stayed at De Plateau Lodge in Bario Baru, approximately 20 minutes ride on the back of a 4WD from the airport ... superb quiet place run by Douglas Bala and his family. Spacious house with several nook and crannies to soak in the Bario fresh air. The gazebo amidst the pitcher plants and various pitcher plants was heaven sent, you can sit there all day. We saw a nesting flowerpecker from there ... And did we mentioned the food? Simply gorgeous!!!

Rent a kerbau for a day or two and see where else Bario can take you!

More Bario pictures.

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