Folks at Kampong Kuala Suai

What's left of a once bustling riverside community in Kampong Kuala Suai. Two years ago on our first visit here, this houses still had curtains adorning the windows eventhough abandoned, those have since crumbled to the ground.

Most of the villagers have prospered and left for greener pastures elsewhere with Bintulu and Miri being the prefered destinations. At the end of the logging boom, villagers witnessed the hustle and bustle of a logging station ebb away with the outgoing tide. With no more jobs, there were less and less people. The last to go was the village school which prompted further emigration of villagers. Even the surau was left wanting and without a dutiful congregation. The Ketua Kampong moved to Bintulu and only occasionally returned to oversee his charges, one of whom is his brother above.

Amer, nephew of the Ketua Kampong moved to Bintulu to land a job with Poslaju Malaysia. Married and recently blessed with a 1.5 year old Shakira above, the family makes regular trips back to the kampong to familiar surroundings and to see relatives still clinging to what's left of the old days. Those who chose to remain continue as fishermen, a typical vocation of coastal communities in the area. With the coming of oil palm plantation JV at the fringes of the kampong, some have become successful planters and enterpreneurs in nearby Sepupok and Batu Niah. With the passing of the elderly folks with time, there'd be even less and less reason to return.

Sakinah goes to school in Bintulu where her family is; here enjoying a morning's play with her seemingly intrepid cousin Shakira. The two girls made the trip from Bintulu by car and later by boat to the kampong with their grandparents and parents for a week long holiday. Shakira exhibited uncanny familiarity with the Sg Suai when she was let loose reluctantly for the first time by her doting grandmother.

The two girls having a frolicking fun time in the shallow waters of Sg Suai. This is Shakira's first venture into the river.

Sakinah being playful.

Shakira getting ecstatic over a newfound plaything. Years of seafaring lifestyle of her community peaking out unabashedly as she played in the river, she defintely has Suai in her blood.

Words and images by Nazeri Abghani

Note:

Amer recently purchased a used Nikon D2X, he plans to document what's left of his villages during his holidays.

Weekend at Suai Beach

Went to Suai again over the weekend after what seems like a very long absence. Almost forgotten what tranquility tastes like since our last few visits there June 2009, April 2009 and our first Dec 2008 for the long walk.

Two years is a long time by any measure, longer for a quietly vanishing place like Kampong Kuala Suai. Though the surroundings feels the same and warmly familiar, the abandoned houses looked more wretched, the place slightly more empty and lifeless. Tok Usu, the oldest crocodile Shaman we knew, had passed on, August 2010 to be exact. Most of his relations had moved to either Kpg Muhibbah, Kuala Baram; Sepupok near Niah and as far as Bintulu. Surprised that Pak Yusof Gayu didn't mention this to us. There are also less young people about. Only Azman our boatman, nephew of Tok Usu, and family are still staying put in the kampong. He's carrying on with the fishing, making daily trips to Suai Bridge as and when necessary.

Abang Rahim is still there, he sorted out all the necessary to make our weekend stay at the kampong possible. He still remembered our fondess for his salted fish. We gobbled it up like biscuits on our last visit, so this time he made four generous portions for us to bring back to Miri. We finally met with Pak Adeni, the official Ketua Kampong as we were leaving Suai Bridge by boat the evening before. We stayed at his guesthouse and had the pleasure of the company of his family for a scrumptious breakfast the next day. We were supposed to have waited for him that morning for more chit-chat, but had to leave before his arrival. We only crossed path halfway Sg Suai on our return trip. Quiet places, tranquil and serene tend to stay that way as they have always been; only the folks slipping in and out as destined.

Kuala Suai.


Scum of life.

Starry, starry nite.

Reaching out to the heavens.

A glorious morning from time immemorial.

A beacon in the middle of nowehere.

Driftwood.

A stretch of sandy sand and lone casuarina tree.

Words and images by Nazeri Abghani