Landmarks in Mukah

Mukah has one simple single overlying theme as far as the design of it's new township is concerned : the Melanau traditional terendak (ie. headcover made of rumbia and other traditional materials). The motif is consciously repeated all over the place. You'll leave town and will think "terendak" for many weeks to come.

There's not much left of the old town. Only a single row of the old wooden shophouses are left standing near the fish market, and yes Kedai Kopi Suap is also the last remaining vestiges of old Mukah. The rest is brand spanking new with a terendak on top.


Mukah new city center at nite.


The clock tower awaiting to be bathe the golden wash of color from the day's sunset.


Spot the terendak.


It's either an administrative building or a mosque. My bet is on the mosque ... unique in design without any trace of Moorish influence.


Two lions guarding the oldest Chinese temple in the area, situated right on the banks of Batang Mukah. The temple is about the only place where one would not find the terendak.

Mukah II: Getting there and coming back

There's absolutely nothing that is obviously wrong with making a short roadtrip to Mukah ... except for the 2 hr slow moving traffic along very bumpy and dusty roads full of potholes. Mukah itself is great, getting there though takes plenty of grit. You are ok if you are driving one of those monster lorries or air-conditioned VIP express buses; if you driving anything else bring extra supply of patience, a clear mind and a very strong constitution. A few cuss words help to express your feelings at many appropriate times. Stay home if you intend to go there in one of your new SLK convertible or anything else more dainty.


If it's not the oil palm transport, it's the coal transport. Once in a while you'll have slow express buses chugging through. Not too pleasant for those travelling the road by bikes or on foot ... imagine those living along this dusty stretch. All 50 km of it, day in and day out.


Those travelling on motorbikes would not be spared the free-flow of dust courtesy of the road construction. Seeing it in a more positive light : no pain, no gain I guess. How are you going to benefit from using smooth, modern road if you don't suck up all the dust first eh? I'm glad I'm only visiting, but I do feel for the little guys having to put up with the big guys' antics who for the most part live much cushier lives.


Past all the dust, pot holes and giant lorries, visitors are greeted into Mukah by a bright cheery yellow metal bridge. The rest of the way (all the way to Mato ferry) the bitumen is fresh and smooth and without potholes, smells new too almost.


A coal shed for the Mukah power plant ... couldn't locate the company name anywhere around the compound. Very low profile for the work that they do.


Here comes the big boys again. From the coalface to the coalshed? Presumably with all the cash from the coal mining operation, the power generation, why can't they upgrade the roads first to a standard it should have for the bitumen to put up with daily traffic of this massive lorries. They seemed to be the major users anyway?


A peek at the coal operation ... couldn't locate the name of the company here either. Seems to be located right smack in the middle of an existing kampong. Taking a flight to Mukah might be good for more than one reason : an areal shot of the place would definitely be quite revealing.


A journey's end at a stop in Selangau situated at the junction to Mukah, halfway between Bintulu and Sibu. Typical of any rest stop restaurants, the place is filled with lethargic folks - proprietors, consumers alike.

Would I do it again? Hell, yeah if someone else is driving in a very comfy, flushed suspension, air-conditioned car that must not be my own. Who has a dainty SLK ... I'll gladly navigate and be your guide to the splendours of Mukah.

Gawai Roadtrip

Three roti telors and two teh tariks later.


A Pak Haji getting his morning fix.


11 am at Tangjong Batu, Bintulu folks have got it real good ... we've got Kuala Miri.


Waves on the rocks.

Birdwatching made easy in Kuala Baram

It was supposed to be an early day out birdwatching but alas, surfed Cabelas into the wee hours of the morning the nite before, so early on this particular Saturday morning meant breakfast at 0730 hrs. Birdwatching didn't start till about 0900hrs. On the coast that's late ... very late!

It wasn't dissappointing to say the least :
Blue-throated Bee-eater, Purple Heron, Cattle Egret, Little Egret, White-breated Woodswallow, Sunda Pygmy Woodpecker, Common Iora, Olive-backed Sunbird, Black-headed Munia, Dusky Munia, Yellow-vented Bulbul, Lesser Coucal, Yellow-bellied Prinia, Spotted Dove, Pied Thriller, Ashy Tailorbird and A Brown Tree-snake that tried it's best to invade the nest of a woodswallow but was easily thwarted by three very determined birds.


Find yourself a big leafy, shady tree and plunk yourself on a comfy chair next to your scope and get your binoculars handy. The old junk and pesky birding buddy are optional.


Enjoy the view, ignore the occasional traffic and wait for the birds to come. The area is flanked by the peatswamp, Sungai Baram on the left; brackish marshland and South China Sea to the right. There are plenty of insects, caterpillars and prey for birds. The view isn't half bad.


A beautiful raptor sitting on a dead branch surveying his patch.


A nest the raptor was at initially. The many large, bare tall trees in Kuala Baram provides suitable nesting sites for several raptor species, from Falconets, Brahminy Kites, White-bellied Sea Eagles and others. It's proximity to human habitation and easy access however meant that a few of these nests have been vandalised for eggs by unscrupulous people in the past.


There were many bee-eaters in the area.


Oi! Where's my breakfast?


This little birdie walloped quite a few fat caterpillars before he noticed that he's being watched.


There were constantly a pair of Pied Thrillers chasing each other amongst the branches, these too were after caterpillars.


Another happy customer.


A pair of White-breasted Woodswallows intently watching over their nest on the same tree.


An unassuming place to raise up a brood.


An 'unwanted' visitor to the woodswallow's humble abode. He was quickly evicted by a pair of very aggressive and protective parents.


This beautifully patterned monitor lizard too would not hesitate climbing up a tree in search of food ... just look at his girth, one prosperous little opportunist.

For more birds forays in Kuala Baram checkout http://mnsmiri.blogspot.com


All photos were digiscoped.

Old Man in Kota Bharu April 2009

Old man playing chess near the old taxi station, Kota Bharu. April 2009.

I can't remember the last time I lugged any of my film cameras out for a fun day out shooting black and white. Let's see : ran out of Neopan Jan 2008, ordered film April 2008, films arrived Aug 2008, picked up film from KL Sep 2008 ... busy busy with other stuff ... thought I found a potential model ... turned out I was wrong. Bought the 40d Jan 2009. Films are still packed, cameras are in the drybox ... model none to be seen. 2008 already concluded as a dismal year for personal B&W. Six months to go for 2009, already looking as dismal as 2008 as far as personal B&W images are concerned. Dang!!!!

This picture was taken roaming around Kota Bharu one afternoon with Canon 40d, converted to B&W on PS.

A few birds from Kuala Miri

The new Kuala Miri located past the Miri Golf Course at the end Kampung Pulau Melayu is also a good place to see typical coastal birds ie. White-bellied Sea Eagle, Brahminy Kites, Pied Thriller, White-breasted Woodswallow, Collared Kingfisher and the like. Went there back in April and caught a few on camera, perhaps worth going again. The setting is very nice, cool breeze and very expansive view of the coast under the shades of young casuarina trees.


Not quite sure what this raptor is, I know it's not White-bellied Sea Eagle not Brahminy Kite. It was being chased after by White-breasted Woodswallow.


A Pied Thriller checking out the abundant insects on the casuarinas.


A pair of very aggressive White-breasted Woodswallow, perhaps protecting a nest or just being territorial.


A Cattle Egret in breeding plumage. These normally hang out by the roadside by the grass.

All photos were taken 05th April 2009.

Backyard Birdwatching

I was told that there are at least 7 species of birds around our garden : Oriental Magpie Robin, Peaceful Dove, Spotted Dove, Asian Glossy Starling, House-Swift, Eurasian Tree-Sparrow, Yellow-vented Bulbul, Sunda Pygmy Woodpecker, White-breasted Woodswallow, White-breasted Waterhen, Black-headed Munia, Dusky Munia, Pacific Swallow, Olive-backed Sunbird, and Scarlet-backed Flowerpecker. Wait a minute ... that's 14! Not including the occasional Common Sandpiper that comes around now and again.

Some of the little birdies in our garden:

We have a few flowering plants in the garden, the main attraction however seems to be a flowering parasitic creeper ... for the few sunbirds at least.